Bodegas Castañeda

About Bodegas Castañeda

Bodegas Castañeda was founded in 1927 by José Martín, a Valdepeñas wine producer, and later passed to his daughter María Castañeda. Around 1990 the premises were split; the Antigua Bodega Castañeda on Calle Elvira is now a separate business. Since 1991 the Almireceros bar has been run by Pepe Torres, son of the founder of Bodegas La Mancha, with his children. The two clusters of 225-litre casks behind the bar are original. In 2024 it won Spain's Premio Nacional de Hostelería.

Order the calicasas, created by a waiter from the village of Calicasas: dry and sweet wines, vermouth, rum, gin, orange liqueur and soda. Barrel vermouth and follaza (sweet wine cut with white) are the other classics. Each drink brings a free tapa, often a montadito of cured meats; there is a daily stew, manitas de cerdo (pork trotters) and boards of Joselito ham and cheese.

It opens daily at 11:30 and serves until about 01:00. A drink with tapa costs about €3–5 (2026); a few rounds and a board come to €20–30 per person. Most people stand at the counter or round barrels; there is also a dining room. No booking for the bar.

Come at opening with the vermouth regulars, or after 20:00; from 13:30 to 15:00 it is packed. In winter the stews and trotters are at their best. Tip: ask for the calicasas by name, and stop at one.

Bodegas Castañeda in pictures

What you’ll find

• Ham and charcuterieHam and cured meatsBuy
• Historic interiorHistoric premisesFree
• Late openingOpen lateFree
• RacionesSharing plates (€10–€22)Buy
• Sherry and wineWines by the glassBuy
• Signature dishHouse specialityBuy
• Standing barBar counterFree
• TapasTapas at the bar (€3–€5, 11:30–01:00)Buy
• Vermouth on tapVermouthBuy
• Walk-in onlyNo reservationsFree

Nearby places to visit

Bodegas Castañeda stands on a short lane between Calle Elvira and Plaza Nueva, so the old centre is all within a few minutes' walk. Casa Julio, Granada (30 m) and La Trastienda, Granada (90 m) make an easy three-bar round. Granada Cathedral (130 m) and the Royal Chapel of Granada (160 m), where the Catholic Monarchs are buried, are just across Gran Vía, and the Mercado de San Agustín, Granada (240 m) is the place to buy local cheese and ham. Uphill, the Moorish baths of El Bañuelo (400 m) sit on the Carrera del Darro below the Alhambra.