Gastronomy · Metropolitana de Almería

Casa Puga

Almería's oldest bar, in a 19th-century former coaching inn by the Plaza Vieja: tiles, a Macael marble counter marked in pencil and dozens of tapas since 1870.

About Casa Puga

The corner building on Jovellanos dates from the early 19th century; from 1870 its ground floor stabled carriages, with an inn above. In 1890 Luis García opened a tavern there, and in 1900 Juan Puga Antequera bought it, serving fried cod, sausages and wine from Alboloduy. From 1929 the house bought its wine each season in the Contraviesa hills, and Puga's nephew Leonardo Martín took over around 1948. On his retirement in 2015 the Hotel Catedral group bought it, keeping name, staff and décor; a 2024 refit restored the tiles and marble counter.

There are more than 20 tapas: champiñones a la plancha, hueva de maruca and mojama with almonds, pinchos morunos, riñones (kidneys), boquerones in vinegar on potatoes, pulpo a la gallega and ensaladilla rusa. Raciones include gambas en gabardina (prawns in batter), cazón en adobo, fried fish and Jabugo ham. The house red from Albondón is served by the glass or jug, and a tapa comes free with each drink.

Opening is Monday to Saturday 12:00–16:00 and 20:00–00:00; closed on Sundays. A wine or beer with tapa costs about €2.50–3.50 and raciones €10–20 (2026); around €15–25 per person. The front bar is standing only; a small back room has tables. Walk-in.

Go at 13:00 or 20:00 to find space at the counter; by 14:00 drinkers stand three deep. Christmas week is the busiest of the year. Tip: try the champiñones and gambas en gabardina, then let the waiter choose the next tapa.

Casa Puga in pictures

Wine racks, hanging hams and tiled dining room under old photographs at Casa Puga, Almería

Tapas and a beer on a table against blue-and-white tiles at Casa Puga, Almería

What you’ll find

Fried fishPescaíto fritoBuy
Ham and charcuterieHam and cured meatsBuy
Historic interiorHistoric premisesFree
Late openingOpen lateFree
RacionesSharing plates (€10–€20)Buy
Sherry and wineWines by the glassBuy
Signature dishHouse specialityBuy
Standing barBar counterFree
TapasTapas at the bar (€2–€4, 12:00–00:00)Buy
Walk-in onlyNo reservationsFree

Nearby places to visit

Casa Puga is in the historic centre between the Plaza Vieja and the Puerta de Purchena, so the main sights are close. Almería Cathedral (250 m), the fortress-like 16th-century cathedral, is just to the south, and the Alcazaba of Almería (360 m) rises behind the Plaza Vieja. The Mercado Central de Almería (330 m) sells the local tomatoes and fish. For more tapas, El Quinto Toro (340 m) is beside the market and Casa Joaquín, Almería (450 m) is at the port end of Calle Real, a ten-minute walk away.